Tuesday, August 26, 2008
After 3 months of summer break I am finally back in school and I already can't wait till winter break. I went to buy my books today but I didnt have enough money to buy all my books. My calculus and physics book costs $200 a piece! Theres no waves in town right now. Alamoana is like a lake and Diamond head is like 1 foot and barely breaking. Everytime I come home its flat. Ther might a some small swell this weekend but dont count on it.
Thursday, August 21, 2008
Today the waves were really fun in Shonan. It was like 1 foot in the morning but in the afternoon it was like 3 feet on the big sets (Mostly solid 2 footers). I ended up surfing 3 times today. The waves were not as good as Hawaii but it was the best waves I caught in Shonan this summer. Last night I went to eat good sushi with Mitz from Drift Surf. Tommorrow Im off to ibaragi for my contest. It looks like theres going to be some waves but its probabaly going to be really onshore. Right now its storming in Shonan. Theres lightning everywhere with super loud thunder...
Sunday, August 17, 2008
After 7 hours of riding in a car I finally got back to shonan. In 7 hours i could fly back to Hawaii. The last day in Fukushima was pretty good because we got some waves. It was 2 feet and really mushy but It was the best waves so far on this trip. Right now Im at shonan but the waves are flat! Its about knee high and 100 guys out! Typical shonan... Looks like south shore has some waves. You guys better surf now because when I come back its going to be flat. Right now Im at my sponsors surf shop and just working at the cashier. We got some live radio from Hawaii running in the store so atleast theres a little bit of Hawaii here.
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Everywhere I go it seems like theres no waves and everywhere I leave there is waves. I left shonan to surf better waves but all of a sudden a typhoon poped up and shonan actually has shoulder high waves. In Fukushima the waves are knee high and onshore. Supposed to get some waves tommorrow but Im not too sure yet. Hawaii should wave some waves this sunday. At night I went to eat some super good Yakiniku! It was the best yakiniku I've ever ate!
Friday, August 15, 2008
Left shonan at 4 am this morning and got to Fukushima around 10 am. We got there and the waves were pretty flat! It was maybe 1 foot on the sets but still ridable. Sorry I didn't take pictures. After surfing couple hours we headed toward the place we are staying. That drive also was another 1 hour. Today was a really tiring day and theres a possible small swell coming in on sunday.
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
After one month of staying in Hawaii I am back in Japan for 2 weeks. If you think Hawaii is hot, try coming to Japan in august. Its like 95 degrees with a relative humidity of like 70%. The worst part is the ocean is just as warm. I went to the beach to cool down but the water was like a warm bath with a lot of dirty rubbish in the water.
On the airplane I couldn`t really sleep at all because I was busy watching movies. I watched 3 movies. I watched 21, Kung FU Panda, and What Happens in Vegas. All the movies were really good! After I landed I got picked up and headed to Shonan. I ended up surfing a little in knee high waves with like 100 guys out. Right now its Obon so everybody in Japan has a week off from work so the beach is really crowded.
At Night, I went out to eat Yakiniku with Mitz,Yasu and bunch of other people. I ended up getting home at like 3am. Which is like 8am in Hawaii so I ended up staying awake for more than 24 hrs. I am really tired right now and tommorow we are waking up at 2 am to head down to Fukushima. I hope the waves are good!
Thursday, August 7, 2008
THe waves has been kind of small the last couple of days. ABout 2 feet at D-head and pretty small everywhere else. There are no significant swells forecasted for atleast another week. Maybe a SMALL bump next weekend. Hopefully we get some windswell this weekend.
Also check out the little video made by Brice Yamashita. Its a video of my brother KOOKing it. HaHa. Brice is my brothers shaper and he always makes sick little videos and boards too. Check his site out at bricesurfboards.com