Monday, September 29, 2008

fun waves

The waves have been really fun the last couple days at D-head. Nothing big but atleast it was clean. It was like 2 feet solid and lining up really good! Perfect for longboarding. Today I surfed with Ned and my brother and it was really fun! Other than that I got my midterms back for 2 classes. I got an A in chemistry and a B- in physics. Its really funny that I got a better grade in chemistry rather than physics because I understand physics a lot more than chemistry. I also have a midterm on friday and bunch of online homework due on friday too. And i have to start shipping my boards to Japan. Ahh, i have so many things to do! Im glad theres no south swells coming in. Should have waves in the country starting tommorrow but it seems like the whole world is surfing in the country now days...

Friday, September 26, 2008

Tiny Waves

Im finally done with midterms for this month so I've been surfing lately but the waves have been so small. September started off with one of the biggest south swells of the summer but now it seems like summer south swells are finally over. Looks pretty flat for rest of this month. Hopefully we get some swells in october... This weekend shouldnt be smaller than the last couple days so it should be rideable in town. Country looks like there is going to be a pretty good North Swell coming in mid next week. I start midterms in like 2 weeks again so I hope the waves get good soon. Lately I've been riding a new eps board shaped by mitsu. Its not extremely light but its lighter than what I usually ride so it feels better. The board definetly has more flotation so it paddles well and the lightness makes it more responsive.

Monday, September 22, 2008

Christian surfers Contest

I had a contest a bowls this weekend. The contest was the 10th annual christian surfers contest. The waves were absolutely flat but somehow I made it to the finals for the shortboard and the standup division. I didnt do that good in the shortboard final(4th) but I ended up winning the standup paddle. My brother also won the jr men shortboard so the contest was pretty good. They had plenty of food and good music so it was really fun. Check out the picture above. THe waves are so small that I dont even need to open my eyes when Im turning. Haha.

Thursday, September 18, 2008


I got couple of midterms this week into next week so I havent been really surfing lately. The waves have been kind of junk the last couple days so I didnt bother going to the beach. Other than studying, I bought my ticket to Japan for the last 2 JPSA events in October. I wasn't going to go because I have like 4 midterms that week but, I didnt want to pass up this opportunity to go surf in Miyazaki. Luckily my teachers were pretty cool so they are going to let me take my midterms before I leave for Japan. Theres a contest this weekend at bowls but it looks like its going to be pretty small. Also the WCT event in France starts this weekend too. Watch out for Sl8ter cause he might clinch his 9th world title there...

Sunday, September 7, 2008

UH game

I went to the UH game today with my school friends. The game was really good especially the 3rd quarter. In the beginning I thought we were going to lose but UH pulled through scoring 22 points in the 3rd quarter. Theres also some solid waves in town today. It was solid 5 feet on the standout spots. I surfed concessions today and it was really fun and not too crowded since there was no parking. Supposed to get waves for atleast another 3,4 days. Its good when theres swell but at the same time the waves keep me from doing my homework so its bad as well. It should be another good day of surf tommorrow.

Friday, September 5, 2008


We got a big trampoline at our house for my brothers birthday. It basically takes up half of our back yard! You can do backflips, frontflips and whatever you want to do. School has been really hard this semester. I havent been surfing too much lately because I've had so much homework. Today the waves were pretty good. It was like 3 feet on the sets but it was crowded like a zoo at concessions. The waves should be good all weekend! Stoked!